A. Debby Travis' Painted house did a show on this recently and you can get the instructions from her website (just do a search for Debby Travis on the internet) -- but essentially -- she painted the anaglypta [affil link] wallpaper with a roller (latex paint) and then took a different colour and applied it just to the raised pattern bits by dabbing off much of the colour and then just brushing the sponge, ever so lightly, until the raised part had accepted the colour. Debby then went over with a paint brush and highlighted individual parts of the pattern with an artist's paint brush -- but this wouldn't really be necessary...It looked really nice!
A. Hi Cory: You are probably long since finished, but for future reference you can basecoat with any number of waterborne metallic finishes (McCloskey [affil link], Sheffield [affil link], Crescent Bronze [affil link], and Modern Masters [affil link] are all pretty good). You can get your desired shade of copper by adding a little silver and some red. You needn't buy whole quarts of metallic for shadings: go to your local hobby shop and get 2 oz containers of airbrush colors for $1 to $4 ea.
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Apply the basecoat with either a 50/50 lambswool/fiber blend roller cover 1/2 nap [affil link] which will allow you take out the roller lines, or if you want it super smooth, brush it on with a good Wooster paint brush [affil link] or Purdy nylon/polyester brush [affil link]. An angle sash brush will allow you to go fast and do tricks like swirling.
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When the basecoat dries, you can either accent with a bright gold, or take a 1/8 mohair roller cover [affil link] and it will leave paint just on the raised portions. Sheffield will send you a complete chart of available metallic colors. McCloskey only makes 4 or 5, but they accept additional tinting better. Good luck.
Q. I recently remodeled my kitchen. It is an old Victorian home and I thought that I would like to try a tin ceiling. What I want to know is if I can faux paint one. Does anyone have any ideas about where I can start?
A. I used paintable wallpaper anaglypta [affil link] that I bought at Lowe's for about $10 a double roll. They have one design that actually looks liked old tin when painted. The design is raised and it is very authentic looking.
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Q. I also am trying to get the tin ceiling look. My first thought was to the wallpaper, that looks like a tin ceiling but thought that the 21, or what ever it is, would appear like strips of wall paper, not a tin ceiling. How do you put it up without the seams showing? Could a stamp be made of something that had a tin ceiling pattern and then stamp it? There must be a solution.
A. I have used the anaglypta [affil link] (embossed wallpaper). I work at Home Depot in blinds & wallpaper dept. The designer & I displayed the papers on 4 x 8 sheets of plywood & had them hung to show different ways to paint embossed paper. We painted one silver, one copper & and one to look like brass, using the Ralph Lauren metallics in the quart jars. The panels turn out beautiful. We also washed 1/2 of each board with paint to resemble tarnished metals. They hung in the store for 3-5 mos. People would pass and say look at the tin ceilings. We were very pleased with our results. We used the paper with the 6 x 6 inch square design. I am going to use the bigger square (12 x 12) for my ceiling in dining room at my 120 yr. old cottage.
A. I also lived in a old Victorian home and redid the bathroom. I wanted a tin ceiling in there and I tried the anaglypta [affil link] embossed wallpaper on the ceiling. I did have some trouble getting the paper to stick but used staples also. I was concerned about the seams and how they would look so after I hung the paper and painted it with the metal paints, I trimmed all the edges and all the seams with a one inch trim board which was painted the same color. It turned out wonderful. I got so many comments saying how real it looked.
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A. I just finished two rooms in my home with the embossed, tin-looking wallpaper and it turned out awesome. I cut the wallpaper which was 6x6 squares into 4 by 4 squares (resembling tin plates) which I could handle easily by myself when hanging. I found the paper on eBay for 9 bucks a roll. I also found the ceiling texture was a big factor for the pre-pasted wallpaper to adhere properly (also when they say to soak the paper for 5 seconds take 10 and only let sit 3 to five minutes for booking). The flatter or non textured, the better and easier. I wallpapered over one ceiling with that had that sand additive for texture in the paint, and had lots of trouble making the squares match up. Solution, white caulking on the spots that lifted from the ceiling and two coats of paint. Looks great. I had to write back after my project, because I used a lot of good advice from you all!
Q. I live in a victorian home and put that Zinsser Shieldz Wallcovering Primer [affil suggestions on eBay & Amazon] in the purple can. And, then put up the faux tin ceiling paper (anaglypta [affil link]) that I got at Menards. Seems I must have done something wrong . Because, as we speak, the faux tin ceiling was coming down. I pulled it all down today and, again I have to move everything out of the living room and, re-do it. Does anyone know how to do this? Where it will not fall off again. Do I have to re-prime with that Shieldz if I primed once before ... Maybe someone knows? My victorian is from 1890 and, I want to do it right ... HELP ME ... REBECCA
A. Hi, Rebecca. I have not done this myself, but priming with the Shieldz Wallcovering Primer seems like exactly the correct way to do this project. I am not familiar with what you used for adhesive for the ceiling tiles, and maybe that is the problem? You probably need an instant-setting adhesive, not something that tacks up in a few hours.
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I am thinking of covering ceiling tile with embossed tin ceiling wall paper (anaglypta [affil link])and then hopefully applying a faux finish of some type to make it look awesome. I read the letters that were on this web site and have a few questions if someone has the answers:
1) I will be working alone on a 15 by 15 ceiling - can I cut the paper into manageable size - e.g., 1/2 of a 8 foot strip making sure the pattern is ok and work with it like this or will that create more work as there will be more seams?
2) not sure how to finish it - would I apply the faux finish before I mount the strips or work overhead after it's on the ceiling?
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3) I was hoping tin ceiling embossed paper will cover the tile lines so nothing will show thru. Do you agree? and is there such a thing as too heavy a paper or are they all the same?
4) any particular prep work required to cover tile with this heavy paper? I was going to apply a primer/sizer that home depot sells as the tiles are very smooth and somewhat shiny.
Q. I would like to paint tin_ceiling_faux for decorative purposes. I would like to find out how you begin this process. Thanks.
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I just found this thread and am interested, but have a different twist. We have a basement room with no ceiling, as of yet, and would like to make it look like a tin ceiling. I would rather NOT sheet rock, since I would like access to plumbing, etc. So, my next thought was. . could I use drop ceiling tiles and wallpaper them, stamp them, paint them to look like tin. I'm REALLY cheap, so my next thought was, could I attach the tiles right to the flooring joists, so I wouldn't have to pay for the grids? Any thoughts?
Armstrong sells a staple up embossed ceiling tile 12 x 12 or 24 x 24 that can go directly onto bottom of studs, you can also buy a trackless hidden mounting system (I have done both ways, it is way faster to use the system if doing a large area)
Both tiles styles are paintable and look wonderful done with aluminum paint (1 coat only - looks a bit dull, helps to hid any imperfections)
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A. Floor joists will probably be on 16 centers rather than 12 or 24, so it seems you would still need furring strips rather than stapling directly to the
